When this happens it's almost always a short between the stoplight circuit and the brake output circuit which then puts full 12 volts on the brakes when they are just barely touched. Easy way to test this is to apply the blinker on that side of the trailer and see if the brakes pulse with the blinker.
Only solution is to go over the wiring of the trailer and clean up any obvious shorts like cut or exposed wiring. view full answer...
I would be happy to help.
First I would double check that your Lippert Ground Control 3.0 # LC675817 controller is not in manual mode. The rear jacks can be operated in manual mode by selecting them but the middle jacks only work in auto-level mode.
When I reached out to my contact at Lippert about this he said this is the issue 9 out of 10 times.
If you check and find out you are not in manual mode and the middle and rear jacks will still not retract just let me know.
I included a... view full answer...
If by off point you mean the "Zero Point" then the first step would be to first recalibrate the system # LC358590 using the steps I have pictured below.
If the system is routinely forgetting your Zero Point then your system is most likely either losing power and resetting to factory settings or the controller is going bad. If you have the system wired to a battery disconnect or your trailer battery keeps dying the system will forget its settings and need to be recalibrated.
If the power... view full answer...
There unfortunately isn't a guide to tell us what slide out motor was used in your motorhome so you'll have to get to the motor and get a picture of it's serial numbers so that we can determine the correct replacement. With the slide extended out you'll be able to get under and see the motor attached to the room bar. You may have to unmount the motor in order to see the ID stickers (examples posted below). Before replacing it I recommend checking the power wire with a multimeter # PT89ZR... view full answer...
We've checked with Curt and in addition to graphite grease, you can use the LubriMatic Mini Grease Gun w/ Multi-Purpose Grease # L30132 - the added bonus is that this mini-grease gun will fit in most tool boxes and hard to reach spaces. view full answer...
What assemblies did you have in the hubs originally and what did you replace them with? Were the brakes you installed self adjusting or manual adjusting? Did you happen to install any new wiring that may have been a lighter gauge than 10?
In general though, as long as you are able to get adequate braking power I wouldn't worry too much about the specific gain setting. If you are getting consistent strong braking power I wouldn't sweat it too much unless for some reason you need to increase... view full answer...
First thing to try is soaking the hitch ball in as much WD-40 that you can so that you can hopefully free it up. Let it sit overnight and maybe hit it with a rubber mallet as well. The next thing you can try is putting the weight of a gooseneck trailer on it to see if that releases whatever is binding the ball up. view full answer...
There should not be a loss of air pressure with your Reese Goose Box 5th-Wheel-to-Gooseneck Air Ride Coupler Adapter like part # RP85FR. If this is occurring then that means you have a leak somewhere. In order to find this leak you will want to inflate the system and then spray down the airbag and fittings with soapy water. If you see any bubbles forming then that means there is leak. If you can let me know which part is leaking I can see about getting you replacements (if available). view full answer...
Since the Custom Third Brake Light Camera for 8" Factory Monitor # 3460006 is just "plug and play" there is not going to be a whole lot to be done as far as troubleshooting goes. I recommend first checking your connections are in the right places and are seated fully into their receptacles.
If your connections are good and fully seated, you can also check for power flow to the unit using a circuit tester # PTW2993. If there is power to the connector, then you know the issue is with the... view full answer...
You're doing all of the correct things. Unfortunately when a gooseneck hitch ball hasn't been removed for a longer period of time and/or had lubricant applied it can seize up in the receiver which it sounds like is what happened to you.
Applying some lubricant and hitting it with a mallet is the best thing you can honestly do in this situation. I've heard of people hooking up chains to the hitch ball and tugging up with something like a forklift but I don't recommend doing that as it can... view full answer...
It sounds to me like it is a trailer side wiring issue. To be certain, you'll want to check the blue brake output wire lead from the trailer side connector to the actuator.
If this wire has a break in it and is shorting out to another circuit, then that could be causing your brakes to malfunction and lock up like you're describing.
If in fact this is what's happening, your best bet is to replace that entire wire with part # 10-1-1.
Once that wire is situated, you'll want to make sure... view full answer...
What you need to do is test the 7-Way connector both on your 2017 Ford F-350 and your trailer. Since your F-350 is new I doubt that it is on the vehicle side but you can use a circuit tester like part # PTW2991 and the attached picture of a vehicle 7-Way to make sure that all of the functions are operating properly.
To test the 7-Way on your trailer simply take a 12V battery and ground the negative terminal while using the positive terminal to apply power to each pin on the 7-Way. If one... view full answer...
The Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller # 90885 should not be getting very hot. I recommend checking your wiring to make sure you are getting the correct power to the unit. I recommend using a circuit tester to test the pins where you connect the wiring harness # 22292. It could be that there are bent pins or something that are causing more power to come on that 12V power to the controller. You may want to test for both voltage and amperage using a multimeter like # PT89ZR.
It... view full answer...
Trailer sway with a fifth wheel trailer is a lot more unusual than with a bumper pull trailer. I would suspect you actually have a broken suspension component that is allowing the movement to create the sway. I would recommend going over the suspension looking for anything damaged and replace as needed.
I would recommend getting your trailer sitting level though as that will allow the tires to wear better and the brakes to function better. view full answer...
The Replacement Digital Wall-Mounted Thermostat for Air Command Rooftop RV Air Conditioners part # AT15029 is compatible with AT15027-22, AT15028-22, AT15032-22,or AT15033-22 models whereas the Replacement Wireless Remote Control for Air Command Rooftop RV Air Conditioners part # AT15023 is compatible with AT15026-21, AT15025-21, AT15027-22, AT15028-22, AT15032-22, and AT15033-22 models. If the model number of your air conditioner is listed below for each controller then they can be used... view full answer...
If you aren't receiving any power at the 12V pin location on your truck's 7-Way connector, I recommend making sure that there is not a blown or missing fuse. I took a look at the online owner's manual for your 2017 Ford F-350 for the related fuse and relay locations. Check to make sure the 30 amp fuse in the 27 position and the relay in the number 37 position are present and in good condition. These are located in the power distribution box in the engine compartment and are specifically... view full answer...
The trailer wiring circuits on a 2015 Ford F-350 may only be active while the vehicle is running to conserve the battery. If the vehicle is running and the circuits are not active then you know you have a problem. The first thing to check would be the fuses and relays in the engine bay fuse box. If all are good you will need a circuit tester to check for power at the trailer pins with the circuits active. If there isn't power here you'll have to take the truck into the dealer for service... view full answer...
Regarding the Custom Third Brake Light Camera for 8" Factory Monitor - Night Vision # 3460006, if your camera has the correct 12V power and you are still not getting the camera footage on the monitor then there must be a bad connection somewhere. I attached a photo of the instructions which shows the wiring layout. Make sure your wiring matches the diagram and then go through and check each connection to verify you don't have a connector that is loose or damaged.
Another thing you can... view full answer...
From your pictures, it looks like you have a plastic bed liner in your 2004 Ford F-350. The Demco Recon Gooseneck-to-5th Wheel Trailer Hitch Adapter # DM8550045 requires that the hitch have direct contact with the truck bed and cannot be installed on top of a plastic bed liner.
This is likely what is causing the hitch to turn. You will need to either remove the bed liner or cutout the part of the bed liner the hitch sits on and then ensure things are still properly torqued. view full answer...
It sounds like you may need to check out your wiring on your Air Lift WirelessONE Compressor System for Air Helper Springs # AL25980.
Considering that it worked fine before, and now blows fuses that leads me to believe your wiring is the issue. It could also be a bad compressor, but I would first make sure that your wiring is good. Check to make sure that your grounds are clean, (free from rust/debris) not loose, and there are no exposed wires.
If your wiring is good, check next to make... view full answer...
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